Method and means for sewing and shanking buttons



J. SOLANKA Oct. 26, 1965 METHOD AND MEANS FOR SEWING AND SHANKINGBUTTONS Filed Feb. 25, 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I llhd. al 24 28 Q?V//////////A INVENTOR dos eph So/cmka ATTORNEY Oct. 26, 1965 J. SOLANKA3,213,816

METHOD AND MEANS FOR SEWING AND SHANKING BUTTONS Filed Feb. 25, 1963 2Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Joseph So/anko ATTORNEY United States Patent3,213,816 METHOD AND MEANS FOR SEWING AND SHANKING BUTTONS JosephSolanka, Baltimore, Md., assignor to The Londontown ManufacturingCompany, Baltimore, Md., a

corporation of Maryland Filed Feb. 25, 1963, Ser. No. 260,648 7 Claims.(Cl. 112-265) This invention relates to a method and means for shankingbuttons and is a continuation-in-part of my earlier application SerialNo. 119,916 filed June 27, 1961, and now abandoned.

As conducive to a better understanding of the instant invention thefollowing background material is set forth. In the garment industry itis conventional, in sewing a button or the like on a piece of fabric ora garment, to space the button therefrom and after the sewing has beencompleted to wrap a thread around the connection between the button andthe fabric to provide a shank. This shank strengthens the attachment andfacilitates buttoning and unbuttoning the garment. The conventionalshanking procedure is relatively time consuming and expensive and manymethods and means have been suggested heretofore in an effort to improvethereon. It has been suggested, for example, to provide a spacer or awasher-type element to be positioned between the fabric and the buttonand having openings corresponding to the conventional apertures in thebutton. Such means have either been uncommercial because of undueexpense in manufacture and in handling or because the relatively loosefit of the aforementioned element around the thread securing the buttonto the fabric has caused relative movement between these parts andfriction on the thread, resulting in excessive wear thereof and frequentloss of buttons from the garment. Others have suggested sewing directlythrough a penetrable spacer element but this has caused great dulling ofthe sewing needles and excessive expense in handling.

It is therefore a primary object of the instant invention to provide animproved method and means for performing the shanking operation.

Another object of this invention is the provision of a shanking methodwhich eliminates the necessity of a separate shanking machine and whichresults in a substantial saving of thread during the manufacture of agarment.

It is a further object of the instant invention to provide a method forshanking buttons which is relatively quick and easy to accomplish andrequires little skill on the part of the operator.

A still further object of this invention is the provision of a shankingmethod which results in an improved final product wherein the button isspaced from the fabric by a resilient band means tightly surrounding thethread connecting the button to the fabric.

Another object of this invention is to provide a shanking methodresulting in a product of high uniformity and good aesthetic appearance.

Yet another object of the instant invention is the provision of animproved means for shanking buttons, which means is reliable andefiicient in operation and relatively simple and inexpensive tomanufacture and utilize.

Another object of this invention is to provide a shanking meanscomprising a holder having an opening therethrough for the passage ofthe threads connecting the 3 ,Z l 3 ,8 l 6 Patented Oct. 26, 1965 buttonto the garment and a supporting means extending around the opening toretain a resilient band means during the sewing operation, wherein theholder is frangible so that it may be easily broken and removed, leavingthe resilient band means in relatively tight engagement with the buttonthreads.

A still further object of this invention is to provide a shanking meansof the type described wherein the supporting means is comprised of asubstantially continuous flange means adapted to retain a small rubberband or the like therearound during the sewing operation.

Yet another object of this invention is the provision of an improvedshanking means wherein a plurality of pins are disposed in spacedrelationship about an opening therein to support and retain a resilientband means thereon during the sewing operation.

Other and further objects reside in the combination of elements,arrangement of parts and features of construction.

Still other objects will in part be obvious and in part be pointed outas the description of the invention proceeds and as shown in theaccompanying drawings wherein:

FIGURE '1 is a perspective view of one form of a holder in accordancewith the instant inventionshowing a resilient band means retainedthereon, with parts broken away for illustrative clarity;

FIGURE 2 is a transverse cross sectional view through the holder ofFIGURE 1;

FIGURE 3 is a bottom plan view thereof;

FIGURE 4 is a top plan view of another embodiment of a holder inaccordance with the instant inventive concept, with parts of a resilientband means broken away for illustrative clarity;

FIGURE 5 is a side elevational view of the embodiment of FIGURE 4,partly in section;

FIGURE 6 is a top plan view of still another embodiment of a holder inaccordance with the instant inventive concept;

FIGURE 7 is an exploded view, partly in section, of the elements used inthe method of the instant invention;

FIGURE 8 is a side view, partly in section, showing the relationship ofthe elements after the button has been sewn through the fabric of agarment and secured to a stay button;

FIGURE 9 is a side view, partly in section, showing another step in theshanking procedure wherein the fabric secured to the button is withdrawnthrough the opening in the holder a suflicient distance to allow theholder to be grasped on opposite sides for breaking away;

FIGURE 10 is a side view, partly in section, showing the breaking of thefrangible holder and its removal from the resilient band means, leavingthe latter element in relatively tight engagement with the buttonthreads;

FIGURE 11 is a side view of the relationship of the elements in thefinal article;

FIGURE 12 is a view taken substantially on line 1212 of FIGURE 7;

FIGURE 13 is a view taken substantially on line 13 13 of FIGURE 8; and

FIGURE 14 is a view taken substantially on line 14 14 of FIGURE 11.

Like reference characters refer to like parts throughout the severalviews of the drawings.

Referring now to the drawings, particularly FIGURES 1 to 3, one form ofthe shanking means or holder of therein and an upstanding supportingmeans 2d disposedabout the opening 24. A substantially V-shaped notch 28is diametrically defined in the base portion 22 on opposite sides of theopening 24 and a continuation 30 of the notch 28 separates thesupporting means 26 into two substantially semi-circular flange means32. The notch 28 and its extensions 3% provide a weakened line to renderthe holder 20 readily frangible for a purpose to be described further indetail hereinafter.

A resilient band means 34, for example a small rubber band or the like,is readily secured in stretched relationship over the free end of thesupporting means 26 surrounding the opening 24.

Another embodiment 40 of a holder according to the instant inventiveconcept is shown in FIGURES 4 and as having a circular base portion 42with a central opening 44 therethrough. In this modified form, thesupporting means is comprised of a plurality of pins 46 or the likesecured in spaced relationship about the periphery of the opening 4-4 toretain a resilient band means 48 thereon in a manner similar to theholder 20. A V- shaped notch 50 or other such weakening line is definedin the base portion 42 to facilitate rupture of the holder 40 to releasethe resilient band means 48 in a manner to be described furtherhereinafter.

Another embodiment of a holder in accordance with this invention isshown generally at 60 in FIGURE 6 and comprises a substantially squarebase portion 62 having a circular opening 64 defined therethrough and aplurality of pins 66 or the like disposed in spaced relation around theopening 64 to retain a resilient band means 68 thereon. A notch 70renders the holder 60 frangible in the same manner as the holders 20 and4-0 described hereinbefore.

It is to be understood that the holder of the instant invention may beformed of any relatively rigid but readily frangible material such asplastic or the like and that the particular size or shape of the baseportion, opening or supporting means is not critical to the instantinventive concept.

The use of the shanking means or holder, preferred embodiments of whichhave been shown and described hereinbefore, will now be set forth withparticular reference to the embodiment of FIGURES 1 to 3 and to theimproved method of shanking as shown in FIGURES 7 to 14.

A portion of a garment or a piece of fabric to which a button 80 is tobe secured is designated by the reference numeral 82. A stay button,used in the manufacture of more expensive garments, is shown at 84 andmay be utilized in the method of the instant invention if desired. Theholder 20, with the resilient band means 34 supported thereon instretched relationship, is placed over the fabric 82 in a position wherethe button 80 is to be sewn and shanked. The button 80 is then supportedon the holder 20 and the sewing operation is performed, passing threads86 in the conventional manner through the apertures (not shown) in thebutton 80 and in the stay button 84, if the latter element is utilized.

It is to be understood that the holder 20 may be placed with the bottomof the base portion 22 on the fabric 82 and the button 8t) supported onthe free end of the supporting means 26 as shown in the drawings, or theholder 20 may be inverted so that the free end of the supporting means26 is in contact with the fabric 82 while the button 80 is supported onthe bottom of the base portion 22.

The button 80 is then pulled upwardly as shown in FIGURE 9, ifnecessary, in the direction of the arrow 88 to facilitate graspingopposite edges of the holder 20 by the fingers 90 of the operator. Thiswill pull a portion of the fabric 82 upwardly through the opening 24 inthe base portion 22 of the holder 20 so that the holder 20 may be brokenalong the notched weakening line 28, 30 as seen in FIGURE 10. The brokenportions of the holder 20 will then be removed, allowing the resilientband means 34 to slip off the supporting means 26 and remain in place ina relatively tight engagement with the threads 86 as shown particularlyin FIGURES 10 and 14.

It will now be seen that there is herein provided an improved method andmeans for shanking buttons which satisfies all of the objectives of theinstant invention and others, including many advantages of greatpractical utility and commercial importance.

Since many embodiments may be made of this inventive concept, and sincemany modifications may be made of the embodiments hereinbefore shown anddescribed, it is to be understood that all matter herein is to beinterpreted merely as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

I claim:

1. A holder for applying a. resilient band means to shank buttons, saidholder comprising a rigid, frangible element having a base portion, anopening defined through said base portion, and supporting meanscomprising a plurality on pins disposed in spaced relationship aroundsaid opening extending from said base portion to retain said resilientband means, said holder adapted to be broken to remove the same and toleave said resilient band means in shanking position.

2. In an improved means for shanking a button on a garment, a holderincluding a base portion having an opening defined therethrough, asubstantially continuous flange means disposed around said opening andprojecting from said base portion, said flange means being adapted toreceive an endless resilient band extending thereabout, a portion ofsaid holder being adapted to suppoit a button thereon when an opposedportion of said holder is held in engagement with the garment to whichsaid button is to be affixed by threads sewn through said garment, saidopening, and said button, said holder being provided with a weakenedsection on each side of said opening along which said holder may bebroken so that the broken parts of said holder may be removed from aboutsaid threads leaving said endless resillient band in shankingrelationship to said threads.

3. In an improved means for shanking a button on a garment, a holderincluding a base portion having an opening defined therethrough, aplurality of pins disposed in spaced relation around said opening andprojecting from said base portion, said pins being adapted to receive anendless resilient band extending thereabout, a portion of said holderbeing adapted to support a button thereon when an opposed portion ofsaid holder is held in engagement with the garment to which said buttonis to be affixed by threads sewn through said garment, said opening, andsaid button, said holder being provided with a weakened section on eachside of said opening along which said holder may be broken ,so that thebroken parts of said holder may be removed from about said threadsleaving said endless resilient band in shanking relationship to saidthreads.

4. A method of sewing and shanking buttons comprising placing a holdersupporting thereon a resilient band means in a position on a fabricwhere a button is to be sewn and shanked, supporting said button on saidholder, sewing said button to said fabric with threads, breaking awaysaid holder from said resilient band means and leaving said resilientband means surrounding said threads to shank the same.

5. A method in accordance with claim 4 wherein said resilient band meansis normally dimensioned to surround said threads relatively tightly andwherein said resilient band means is supported on said holder is astretched relationship about an opening in said holder to facilitatesaid sewing operation.

6. A method in accordance With claim 4 wherein said fabric is a garmentand wherein a stay button is provided on an opposite side of saidgarment from said button and said button and said stay button are sewnto said garment by said threads.

7. A holder for applying a resilient band means to shank buttons, saidholder comprising a rigid frangible element having a base portion, anopening defined through said base portion, and supporting meanscomprising a substantially continuous flange means extending around 10means being adapted to be broken along said weakening line to removesaid holder and to leave said band in shanking position.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 423,327 3/90Keeler 2691 1,316,012 9/19 Barron. 2,513,633 7/50 Folsom. 2,585,113 2/52Gredell 6428 ROBERT C. RIORDON, Primary Examiner.

FRANK SUSKO, Examiner.

4. A METHOD OF SEWING AND SHANKING BUTTONS COMPRISING PLACING A HOLDERSUPPORTING THEREON A RESILIENT BAND MEANS IN A POSITION ON A FABRICWHERE A BUTTON IS TO BE SEWN AND SHANKED, SUPPORTING SAID BUTTON ON SAIDHOLDER, SEWING SAID BUTTON TO SAID FABRIC WITH THREADS, BREAKING AWAYSAID HOLDER FROM SAID RESILIENT BAND MEANS AND LEAVING SAID RESILIENTBAND MEANS SURROUNDING SAID THREADS TO SHANK THE SAME.